Loft Preparation - Floor Boards

Until I had some boards down, I had to take care to stand on the rafters, as the plasterboard would not take my weight, and the newly laid insulation is compressed if I put any weight on it. I am wearing my special safety shoes!

I did not try and balance my tools on the rafters (not a good idea), but placed them onto a 4' by 2' piece of chipboard (that had been used as a door on a tool store). I also kneeled on another identical board when I was working as a stable base is needed when working with tools. You cannot work well when trying to concentrate on not overbalancing (and falling through the ceiling!)

I am using Tongue and Groove boards that interlock and come in a more convenient size than big 8' by 4' chip board which has to be cut up into smaller lighter pieces that will fit through the loft hatch. I have screwed the boards down using *** screws but have not laid them in exactly the same pattern as shown on the label. I will publish the layout of the loft showing how the boards have been arranged.

I (now) mark on top of the boards when there is something below the board such as a screw, rafter, bracket etc. This is to prevent me snapping any more drill bits and show me where to screw things down in the future when I have forgotten exactly where everything is. It may also help future owners of the house.

The main beams going along the loft are not parallel, so the last boards to be put in required some fitting. I had staggered the boards for strength which only added to the difficulty. However I still believe the gradual laying of boards in strips along the loft is still the best method as it allowed me get more insulation down sooner (it was winter) and without as many joins (which would let more heat through).