Loft Preparation - Loft Hatch

First I had to enlarge the hole in the ceiling/floor as it was only ** wide. This meant cutting out the plaster board and beam and replacing it with new 75mm by 50mm beams on two sides (those visible in the picture). This had to be done all at one go as I could not pull myself up into the loft from the step ladder (no loft ladder) or let myself down as the remaining unsupported plasterboard would not hold my weight.

The size of the hole in the ceiling/floor was dictated by the minimum size need for the loft ladder (look at the instructions for the ladder in the shop eg. don't buy it yet). I would certainly recommend buying a plasterboard saw, even if you are only going to use it once. Also look out for nails hidden in the old wood, especially if you are using an expensive wood sawsaw. If you are worried, cut the wood with a hacksaw. It is slower, but it can cut nails and screws easily.

The hatch had to be framed in a bit more to allow for the thickness of the insulation and to support the new floor. It also strengthened it as where there was a join in a 75mm by 50mm beam, a 50mm by 25mm was added. At this point I am still pulling my self up into the loft from a step ladder.

I then built a wooden frame around the new hole in the ceiling to hide the rough edge. I have plastered around the wooden frame. To the frame I attached the new loft hatch trap door. This is a sheet of plywood attached to a wooden frame with inset, hidden, hinges. I will at sometime paint the trap door and frame white. This doesn't add to the functionality, so it is not a high priority.

To keep the hatch closed I added some catches that are sprung loaded and automatically hold the trap door when it is closed. However when I put draught proofing strip around the hatch, the catches would not hold the door closed. Even thought the foam was only about 6mm thick and was compressible, I had made the door so well the gap did not need sealing, so I removed the strip.

Also when I insulate the trap door, making it slightly heavier, I may need to add some sort of positive latch that works by putting a bit of material in the way instead of the strength of the springs in a sprung loaded catch.

Once I had put down all the battons and insulation had been laid, and I had put floor boards down around the hole, I could finally add a new loft ladder. This makes it so much easier to get into the loft, especially with tools, Scalextric cars, slotcar track, coffee etc.

Even without adding the insulation the loft hatch was too heavy and every so often it would swing open with a massive bang as it hit the wall below. I decided it needed a more positive catch. The new catch needed a hole in the frame of the hatch and a smaller one in the face.

The new catch needed a 16mm hole drilled with a flat wood drill bit. This was drilled in two parts, one from each side of the frame. I smaller guide hole was drilled first. It also needed 2 countersunk holes to take the screws that hold it in place.

Then the catch, which is the type used in domestic doors (to rooms etc) can be pushed through the hole and the fixing screws done up. This type of catch is very easy to find new or second hand. The catch rests agains the wooden frame around the hole in the floor/ceiling. I then made a door handle on a stick so that I can open the hatch.

I then insulated the hatch using felt from a craft shop. The hatch will not swing open unless the catch is turned. The hatch is easy to close by just pushing it up (no handle needed).

I can now insulate the hatch and put a sheet of wood over the top.